Date: July 24, 2024

According to Forbes Magazine, a majority of younger generations (59 percent of Generation Z and 57 percent of Millennials) are buying upcycled products. This growing trend has transformed the fashion industry, blending creativity with sustainability. However, as upcycling becomes more popular, it also brings about complex intellectual property (IP) challenges. In a recent video, Lucian C. Chen, Head of Patent Litigation and Prosecution, and Karen Chen, Associate in the Intellectual Property and Brand Management Practice Group, delve into the legal intricacies of upcycling in fashion, offering valuable insights for designers and entrepreneurs alike.

The Intersection of Fashion and IP Law

The video opens with a nod to pop star Taylor Swift, whose upcycled jacket, representing her boyfriend and NFL star Travis Kelsey, sparked a fashion frenzy. The handmade jackets, originally crafted by Kristen Nuschek for Swift and other celebrity wives, soon became a hot commodity, raising important questions about IP rights and licensing agreements.

  1. The First Sale Doctrine and Upcycling:
    • The first sale doctrine allows individuals to resell items they have purchased, but upcycling adds a twist. When a jersey is transformed into a jacket, it becomes a new product, potentially infringing on the original brand’s IP rights. Lucian explains that this transformation can lead to consumer confusion, as people might mistakenly believe the upcycled product is endorsed or produced by the original brand.
  2. Licensing Agreements:
    • Karen highlights the importance of licensing agreements in the upcycling process. Initially, Nuschek did not have a licensing deal with the NFL or Nike, as she was gifting the jackets rather than selling them. However, the popularity of these unique pieces eventually led to an official licensing deal, allowing Nuschek to legally produce and sell the upcycled jackets. This case underscores the necessity of securing proper licenses when repurposing branded items for commercial sale.
  3. Quality Control and Brand Reputation:
    • Brands have a vested interest in maintaining the quality and reputation of their products. Upcycling can complicate this, as the original brand has no control over the new product’s quality. Lucian and Karen discuss how this lack of control can lead to potential legal disputes, especially if consumers associate any defects or quality issues with the original brand.

Key Insights for Fashion Innovators

  • Conduct Thorough Research: Before repurposing any branded items, understand the legal implications and ensure you have the necessary licenses.
  • Consult with IP Attorneys: Engaging with experienced IP attorneys can help navigate the complex legal landscape and avoid potential pitfalls.
  • Maintain Transparency: Clearly communicate the nature of upcycled products to consumers to prevent confusion and potential legal issues.

As upcycling continues to gain popularity, understanding the legal framework surrounding this practice is essential for innovators looking to make their mark. For more information or to discuss your IP needs, please contact: Lucian C. Chen at 212-324-1880 and Karen Chen at 212-324-1875.

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